Fabric Alert: Indian Brocade

Today there is a vast variety of man-made and natural textiles available in the market. Due to technological and industrial advancements made in the textile sector it has become impossible for people to differentiate between traditional textiles and blended synthetic textiles. We thought for this post why not familiarize our audience with a popular traditional Indian textile, Indian brocade and highlight its usage in our collections.

At the Rachana Reddy studio we strive to blend tradition with contemporary luxury. Apart from using Indian silks in our collections we have also experimented with the idea of using Indian brocades too. We just can't get over this extremely opulent and luxe fabric! In an effort to reinvent traditional Indian brocade and cater to modern sensibilities, we specially source Indian brocades woven in geometric and bold patterns to use in our accessories. Our best sellers Padma & Carpet, Purdah and Oyster are a few clutches where we have incorporated the use of Indian brocade.

Brocade as we all know is a very majestic and ceremonial type of fabric that needs no added embellishment, as it stands absolutely luxurious on its own. Indian silk brocade, also known as Kimkhwab was started in the 17th Century in Benaras, a world famous center for handmade Indian textiles where the ancient tradition of weaving is still preserved. In the ancient time Benaras was famous for the weaving of cotton fabrics, but slowly switched over to silk weaving during the Mughal period (1526 - 1857). 

Kimkhwab, derived from Persian, means “a little dream,” a reference perhaps to the intricate patterns employed; it also means “woven flower,” an interpretation that appears more applicable to the brocade, in view of the floral patterns common to the material. Traditional Indian brocade was done with intricate designs using real gold & silver threads, reflecting ancient Mughal influence which is seen in the motifs used like floral and foliate motifs, animal motifs, architectural motifs inspired from the temples and mosques, and figures with intricate details.

    Indian Silk brocade, Benaras, 19th Century

Heavy gold and silver work, metallic visual effect, intricate detailed motifs and complex weaving are some of the essential characteristics of Indian brocade fabric. The simplest and  the best way to identify an authentic brocade is to see the back of the fabric as it will have groups of loose threads floating on the surface that have been trimmed away. The motif is not a part of the woven base fabric and is woven additionally using the Jacquard technique. As a result the back side of the fabric has a messy appearance.

Still don't have this timeless Indian fabric in your wardrobe? Catch a glimpse of our clutches in Indian brocade: Purdah http://bit.ly/14T7J57, Brocade http://bit.ly/12CTP2K, Brocade http://bit.ly/12FPtYz, Carpet http://bit.ly/18XG2Mw and Oyster http://bit.ly/18g4sy8